My experience cooking at the James Beard House—and how plant-based EXBERRY® colors brought a classic dish to life.
By Christina Olivarez, Corporate Executive Chef at GNT USA
As a kid, I spent countless Saturday mornings glued to PBS cooking shows, watching Julia Child, Jacques Pépin, and Graham Kerr masterfully create dishes like perfect omelets, roasted chicken, and hollandaise sauce. Inspired by their craft, I built my own imaginary kitchen using whatever I had at hand—Lincoln Logs, toys, you name it. Even before I knew I wanted to pursue a career in food, I was immersed in its magic.
Long before those Saturday shows captured my imagination, James Beard had revolutionized food television. He inspired Americans with his love for classic cocktail parties and elevated home cooking, paving the way for modern culinary education. As a culinary student, I studied trailblazers like Escoffier, Carême, and Bocuse. James Beard stood out as a visionary—a true influencer of his time, well before Instagram or TikTok.
Cooking at the James Beard House
James Beard’s former home in New York City is now one of the most iconic event spaces in the culinary world. Operated by the James Beard Foundation, the venue invites chefs from around the globe to craft memorable dining experiences for an audience of industry professionals and food lovers alike.
Through my partnership with the Research Chefs Association, I’ve had the honor of cooking at the Beard House three times. Each occasion has been nothing short of extraordinary.
The first time I walked up to the unassuming brownstone with its iconic plaque, I felt like I was stepping into history. Inside, the house retains much of its original charm—a blend of cozy spaces, historic details, and a surprisingly grand kitchen for a Manhattan brownstone. Cooking there is both humbling and exhilarating.
Reimagining Cauliflower Mornay
For my most recent dinner event—Beard Through the Books—I contributed the vegetable course and pre-dessert, drawing inspiration from James Beard’s writings. One particular mention of “Cauliflower Mornay” caught my eye: a classic dish featuring cauliflower, cheese sauce, and breadcrumbs. That little spark became the foundation for a completely reimagined plate.
Seasonality pointed me toward cauliflower, but a conversation about sheep’s milk yogurt and pecorino cheese gave the dish its soul. I pressure-cooked the cauliflower with whey from the yogurt to create a velvety texture and subtle tang. The sauce blended yogurt and pecorino into a rich, modern Mornay. To balance the dish, I added a lemon and sheep’s whey vinaigrette for brightness.
The breadcrumbs needed to be more than a garnish. We made the bread in-house, then toasted it with butter, lemon zest, salt, and spicy micro arugula—adding texture and a hit of freshness. It was a dish that looked simple but delivered unexpected depth and elegance.
Creating with EXBERRY® Colors
The neutral tone of cauliflower presented the perfect canvas for plant-based color. Using EXBERRY® Shade Bright Yellow, I added warmth to the vinaigrette and played with varying dosages in the breadcrumbs to create visual layers. The result was subtle, yet sophisticated — proof that color can enhance a dish without overpowering it.
This dish wasn’t just cauliflower with cheese; it became a striking, nuanced composition that honored tradition while celebrating innovation.
A Culinary Milestone
Cooking at the James Beard House remains one of the most rewarding experiences of my career. It’s a reminder of the power of food—not just to nourish, but to tell stories, evoke emotion, and spark creativity.
About the author
Christina Olivarez is a Culinary Institute of America graduate and former Executive Chef at Diego, a modern Mexican restaurant in Las Vegas. Named Eater.com’s 2012 Vegas Chef of the Year and a winner on Chopped, she now serves as Corporate Executive Chef at GNT USA. Christina brings a passion for plant-focused cuisine and a love for creating memorable experiences through food.
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